Kitchen of the Mountains: Himal Chuli Story
“Eat food, not too much, and mostly plants.”
“If it came from a plant, eat it; if it was made in a plant, don’t.”
“Don’t eat anything your great grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food.”
“Avoid food products containing ingredients that a third-grader cannot pronounce.”
All of the above are great mantras developed by Michael Pollan in his Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual, a book I like to share with all my patients.
We all know how important real, whole foods are to the foundation of health. In Chinese Medicine, food is the first pillar in maintaining wellness and preventing disease.
I was lucky enough to grow up in a Nepali home that lived by these ideals. Meat was only enjoyed on special occasions and, during the week, we would exclusively eat a traditional Nepali meal. A Nepali meal typically consists of rice, dal (legume soup), a “stew” of curried seasonal veggies, and an achar (some sort of pickle), all cooked with the spices of turmeric, coriander, cumin, garlic, ginger, and cayenne. Of course, as I got older, I often complained and pined for the things my American friends were eating. American food, for me, was “special.” My mother would not allow us any processed food in packages as it was more expensive, and she was adamant about it not being good for us. She did, however, allow us the occasional six-pack of Coca-Cola and a hunk of cheese now and again as a nod to our immigrant story. I have fond memories of large potluck picnics, held at local parks with other Nepali families and my father’s huge American circle of friends, as they often offered us American “treats” denied at home. I remember that my sister and I once used our allowance money to secretly purchase and immediately devour a package of Ding-Dongs. While we were initially delighted with ourselves, within 30 minutes we both felt quite ill. We both learned a lesson that day and our cravings for such food were soon gone. My mother, in her own way, also began to make her own, always healthier, versions of American foods. I can still smell her oatmeal cookies and her delicious and dense fresh brown bread. I was always amazed at my mother’s ability to learn and adapt and come up with creative ideas to take care of us as we straddled two cultures.
We lived in student housing when my father was finishing his PhD at the University of Wisconsin – Madison, during the late 70’s and 80’s. My mother started to work as a babysitter in the community. The nearest supermarket was miles away and we didn’t have a car at that time, but we did have a little nearby co-op that sold various food staples in bulk. During the summer, student housing residents could sign up for a plot of land to garden. It was always a family affair as we all helped prepare the land, seed, and tend the garden. Despite the Wisconsin growing season being brief, the garden provided us with a bounty of fresh vegetables for the entire year, with my mother learning to can and freeze the fresh produce.
My father ultimately became a professor at the University teaching Nepali. At the end of every semester, my father would host a celebratory Nepali dinner with all of his students. For many, this was their first taste of Nepali food. My parents would cook a simple meal using the vegetables from our own little garden as well as from a larger garden we cultivated on a nearby farm owned by our “American grandmother.” The meals were always light, filling, healthy, and delicious. Combine all of this with our Nepali hospitality and welcoming nature, a lesson in eating with your right hand, and everyone always had a great time.
As word of my mom’s delicious cooking spread, we started selling Nepali food at block parties on the Madison campus. The lines were always long and the feedback always positive. Eventually, this led to opening a small food cart, called “Himal Chuli,” on the University library mall. “Himal Chuli” means the kitchen of the mountains. After about three years, we opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant on State Street in Madison and it is still there over 35 years later, and still offers wholesome, nourishing Nepali food to the Madison community.
In 2001, I moved from San Francisco to Minneapolis with my 2-year-old twin girls and husband. Funnily enough, many of my Chinese Medicine patients are Madison alums themselves and I regularly hear from them that Himal Chuli had been a favorite of theirs during their college years. This small world moment allows for instant connection and is entirely rooted in the legacy that my Mom, Dad, and auntie Mama created in the kitchen. My Mom and my auntie Mama gave it their all in those years, providing a space of warmth and love rooted in sharing delicious and nourishing food, a welcoming of students and families, and a taste of Nepali hospitality and caring.
Why do I share this story? I share this in the midst of a pandemic - a period of uncertainty and great change, as well as deep reflection. My mother worked long, hard hours and they took a toll on her health. She gave a lot of herself for many years and her health has declined significantly. There are, however, some silver linings. Even though my Mom hasn’t been in the restaurant kitchen for many years, her recipes are just as popular today as they ever were. In addition, I have been able to spend more time with her over this last year than I had since leaving home as a teenager myself. There is comfort to be found in all of that.
This is only one story of many to honor my Mother and to share her love with you. I will share some of her beloved recipes in the hope that they might provide comfort and hope to you in the same way they have for many years to many others. When asked – “What is the secret to your cooking?” my Mom would always say “a little of this and a little of that.” Securing precise recipes was not easy, but she always insisted that the magic ingredient was, always, love. So, please accept this in love, and be creative and make these recipes your own as I have learned to do.
We all have our own family stories and traditions. I hope my story reminds you of and inspires you to tap into your own.
Namaste!
Family Recipes
The primary spices and herbs used in most South Asian cuisine are turmeric, cumin, coriander, mustard seeds, fenugreek, bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, nutmeg, Szechuan pepper, garlic, ginger, cilantro, and chives. All of these spices and herbs are known to have healing properties. The creative combination of these spices with seasonal veggies, legumes, or meats nourishes, strengthens, and cleanses the body and mind. Most of these spices are available at your local co-op or at Penzy’s. I am happy to help guide you along.
At first the recipes may feel daunting, but, truly, these are my go-to when I have to get dinner on the table in a hurry. The prep work of washing, peeling and cutting takes the most time. Making this a mindful and intentional activity can be a time to slow down from the busy day. When my kids were little, it certainly was my way of having time to myself. Knowing I could quickly and easily provide my family a healthy and nourishing dinner made with love and good intention meant a lot. Also, it was a sure way to get them to eat veggies. These two recipes are great for the spring.
Kurilo Tarkari- Asparagus
Ingredients
1 bunch asparagus
1 small onion, diced
4 tbsp olive oil
2 potatoes
2 small tomatoes diced
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 tbsp minced ginger
Salt to taste
Directions
Wash the asparagus well. Peel lower part of the stem so as to eliminate the toughest, most fibrous part of the stem. Cut into 1 inch pieces.
Wash and leave the peels on potatoes. Cut into bite size pieces.
Heat a good sized sautee pan on medium heat, add oil, onions and dry spices, cook until fragrant. Add potatoes and ¼ cup water, stir and cover for 10 minutes on a lower heat.
Add the asparagus, tomatoes, salt, garlic and ginger and stir. Cover for another 15 minutes, stirring another time. Be careful not to burn. You can add a little more water if need be.
Squeeze of lime and serve with rice.
Simple Saag - Mustard greens or any other leafy greens
Ingredients
1 bunch of mustard greens
½ cup of onion diced
4 tbsp sunflower oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp turmeric
1 tbsp ginger
5 cloves sliced garlic
Salt to taste
Squeeze of lemon or lime
Directions
Wash the mustard greens well and then shred, with your hands, into smaller pieces.
Heat an iron skillet on medium heat. Add oil and cumin seeds until they brown a little.
Add the onions and greens. Cook for 3 minutes or so and then add the garlic, ginger, and salt.
Cover the pan and cook for 3 more minutes. Serve with a squeeze of fresh lime or lemon juice.
Simple – nutritious – delicious.